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The textile industry, frequently criticised for its "fast fashion" practices and vast waste mountains, stands on the cusp of a significant transformation. New research and recent EU regulations are highlighting a clear path towards a circular textile economy, where waste transforms into raw materials and environmental impact is drastically reduced.
Editorial office / Brussels

The current global recycling rate for textiles is alarmingly low at just 1%, yet even small steps can have a huge impact. For instance, a recent study from the IVL Swedish Environmental Research Institute shows that increasing textile-to-textile recycling rates in the EU to a mere 10% by 2035 could make a world of difference: it would save 440,000 tonnes of CO2-eq emissions and 8.8 billion cubic metres of water annually.

This statistical study estimates a 92% chance of reducing climate impact and a nearly 100% certainty of water savings. This clearly indicates that increased recycling is virtually guaranteed to lead to lower water consumption by the textile industry.

Measurement and action

Concurrently, the European Commission is taking concrete steps to accelerate this transition. The new Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR) for apparel and footwear were recently unveiled. These rules introduce a standardised, scientific method to assess a product’s environmental impact across its entire lifecycle – from raw material extraction to disposal.

The PEFCR helps companies identify “hotspots” in their production chain and encourages them to design more sustainably. It’s a powerful tool for pinpointing where the greatest improvements can be made, whether in fibre production, logistics, or the recycling phase. Moreover, it will help consumers make more informed choices, thereby combating “greenwashing.”

Paths to sustainability

While the benefits are clear, researchers emphasise that challenges still need to be overcome. Recycling processes themselves must become more energy-efficient, and the quality of recycled fibres needs to be high enough to replace “virgin” fibres. Policy instruments, such as taxes on primary raw materials, can incentivise manufacturers to use recycled materials.

Beyond the focus on recycling, there’s also growing attention on alternative, sustainable raw materials. Biobased textiles, made from renewable biological sources like plants, are rapidly gaining traction as an environmentally friendly alternative to traditional fibres. This isn’t just true for fashion, but especially for technical textiles, which are used in countless industrial products such as biocomposites, soil stabilisation, safety suits, fishing nets, particulate filters, and so forth.

Working together, the Bio-based Industries Consortium (BIC) and the Circular Bio-based Europe Joint Undertaking (CBE JU) are supporting numerous initiatives to make the textile industry more sustainable across all areas, from innovative materials to advanced recycling techniques.

Read more about this in “Biobased textiles are gaining gound” (Agro&Chemistry).

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