It is a paradox that the industry has been struggling with for years: textiles are everywhere – in clothing, cars, hospitals, construction and agricultural applications – but the majority of fibres are still based on fossil raw materials. ‘We are trapped in a system that seems cheap, but is unsustainable in the long term,’ said Lutz Walter, director of The European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing (Textile ETP) and one of the speakers at the webinar. ‘The CO₂ emissions, the pollution, the waste: we’ve reached the limit.’
According to Walter, approximately 125 million tonnes of textile fibres are produced worldwide each year, most of which come from petroleum. ‘Demand is only increasing, especially in emerging economies. So, the challenge is not only to go green, but also to scale up.’
From forest to blouse
One of the promising initiatives presented during the webinar came from Finland. Heli Kuorikoski, CEO of Metsä Spring’s Kuura textile fibre demo plant, explained how her team is working on a textile fibre made entirely from paper pulp: the Kuura fibre. ‘We use fibres from sustainably managed forests and convert them into a high-quality textile raw material,’ she explained. ‘The process is integrated into an existing bioproduct factory, allowing us to make maximum use of energy and waste streams.’
The factory not only runs on its own power but also produces a surplus of green electricity. ‘We generate 2.4 times as much electricity as we need ourselves,’ Kuorikoski said proudly. The Kuura fibre is not only sustainable but also functional: it is biodegradable, contains no microplastics and has a lower carbon footprint than cotton or viscose. ‘Our partners have tested it in clothing, work uniforms and mattresses, and the responses have been positive.’
Circular chemistry
Ida Alnemo, Head of Applications and Sustainability from Sweden’s TreeToTextile also presented an innovative approach. The company, owned by the H&M Group, Inter IKEA Group, Stora Enso, Lenzing Group and LSCS Invest, developed an affordable cellulose fibre based on a circular chemical process. ‘We use an alkaline process in which chemicals are reused over and over again,’ Alnemo explained. ‘This not only reduces waste but also lowers energy consumption.’
According to Alnemo, the fibre is also more economical with dyes. ‘We achieve the same colour intensity as Lyocell (a semi-synthetic fibre made from cellulose from eucalyptus and beech trees, among others), but with 25 per cent less dye. That is important in a sector that struggles with water consumption and chemical pollution.’
The search for alternative raw materials is high on TreeToTextile’s agenda. ‘We are looking at textile and agricultural waste as a source of pulp,’ said Alnemo. ‘The goal is to become fully circular in the long term, but for now it is important to have a stable, reliable input stream.’
Challenges on multiple fronts
Although technological progress is encouraging, the obstacles are still significant. Walter warned that innovation in the textile sector rarely happens quickly. ‘New fibres have to compete on price, performance and sustainability. That’s a difficult combination. Manufacturers are reluctant to switch without certainty about volumes and delivery reliability.’
Alnemo emphasised that point. ‘You need pilots, but also customers who are willing to learn. We are in the phase of proving the technology, and that requires trust from all parties in the chain.’
Kuorikoski also pointed out the need for a long-term vision. ‘Our fibre is not a replacement, but a supplement. We are not competing with cotton or viscose; we offer an additional option in a more sustainable palette.’
Europe in the lead
Yet there is also hope. Within Europe, momentum for systemic change is growing. Initiatives such as ECOSYSTEX – a network of research projects and experts on sustainable textile innovation – bring together knowledge and practice. ‘There is no shortage of ideas, but there is a lack of integration,’ said Walter. ‘That is why cooperation is crucial. No single company or country can do this alone.’
According to the speakers, there is a clear role for European policy. ‘We need regulations that support sustainable choices, rather than indirectly subsidising fossil fuel options through lower prices or import advantages,’ said Alnemo. Kuorikoski added: ‘What we need now is a level playing field. And investments that help us scale up faster.’
From ambition to leadership
The common thread is clear: the technology is there – now it is a matter of achieving scale, cooperation and market acceptance. The sector cannot do it alone. Governments, investors and purchasers must actively contribute to the transition.
‘The future of textiles does not lie in fast fashion or low prices,’ Walter concluded. ‘It lies in quality, transparency and sustainability. And that starts with the fibre.’ Or, as Kuorikoski put it: ‘We have everything we need to make Europe a world leader in sustainable textiles. But we have to work on it now. Fibre by fibre.’
European innovation in action
Researchers and entrepreneurs in Europe have been working for years on sustainable alternatives to fossil-based textile fibres. Thanks to funding from the Circular Bio-based Economy Joint Undertaking (CBE JU) and its predecessor BBI JU, projects such as Glaukos and Kuura have been able to pioneer new materials, technologies and value chains. It became clear how valuable this support is – and how concrete the results are now.
‘We want to protect the ocean with a new type of polymer’
‘Glaukos is named after a Greek sea god who protected the ocean,’ says Zsófia Kádár, project leader of the now completed EU project. ‘And that was exactly what we wanted to do: develop an alternative polymer that helps prevent microplastics from entering the sea.’
The Glaukos project started in 2020 with the ambition to develop a fully bio-based polymer for both clothing and fishing applications. Not a copy of existing fossil-based polymers, but a new material with the added benefit of biodegradability. ‘But we didn’t want to create an excuse for pollution,’ emphasises Kádár. ‘A fishing net that is biodegradable still needs to be collected. Biodegradation is a safety net, not a free pass.’
The development of the polymer started with waste streams from the sugar and biodiesel industries. ‘Fermentation of pulp waste did not work due to toxic substances. Ultimately, we were able to successfully ferment glycerol and monosaccharides.’ After lab-scale testing, the process was scaled up to 2,000 litres in the Ghent-based Bio Base Europe Pilot Plant. Two prototypes were created: a clothing component and a fishing net structure. ‘They needed completely different properties. But we were able to demonstrate that the materials are suitable for production.’
In addition to material development, Glaukos also worked on new methods for testing biodegradation and ecotoxicity, and on enzymes for biorecycling. Universities, companies and policymakers came together in more than ten workshops. ‘That interaction was invaluable,’ says Kádár. ‘It gave direction to the research and made it clear where the barriers lie.’
Whether Glaukos will have a commercial follow-up is still uncertain. ‘We are exploring new collaborations with entrepreneurs. But without funding from CBE JU, this project would never have been possible.’
‘Textile fibres from wood, without the disadvantages of viscose’
Deep in the Finnish forests, Metsä Group is building a new generation of textile fibres. ‘Our cooperative consists of 95,000 forest owners,’ says Niklas von Weymarn, CEO of Metsä Spring. ‘We use their wood for paper and tissue. Now we want to turn it into sustainable textile fibres as well.’
Viscose is a well-known wood-based fibre, but it is under pressure due to the use of toxic chemicals. That is why Metsä developed an alternative: Kuura. ‘It looks like cotton but is made from a special type of wood pulp. And it fits into existing spinning mills.’
The Kuura technology was first tested in the “GRETE” and “BIOMOTIVE” projects and is now being scaled up in a demonstration plant. ‘We are currently in the validation phase,’ says Von Weymarn. ‘The technology works. The question is: is it also economically viable?’
Metsä works closely with the Japanese company ITOCHU, which processes Kuura fibres into clothing and tests them with end customers. ‘This teaches us how the chain works, what customers find important and what price is realistic.’
Kuura focuses on two markets: clothing and non-wovens (such as medical masks). ‘We also see niche applications in, for example, car seats or curtains.’ The step to a commercial factory is a big one, but according to Von Weymarn, it is not unrealistic. ‘We have proven that it is technically possible. The next step depends on market demand and capital.’
Like Kádar, he emphasises the importance of European support. ‘The technical basis is there. What follows is industrial scaling up – and that requires vision, courage and support. Without CBE JU, we would never have been able to get this far. It reduces the risk and accelerates innovation.’
Both projects demonstrate what European innovation policy can deliver: new materials, circular processes, industrial pilots and social engagement. What began with fundamental research is now resulting in tangible solutions for a fossil-free textile future.
This article was written in collaboration with the Bio-based Industries Consortium (BIC).
Image above: Tatyana-Mi/Shutterstock
